This is the soulful, vibrant country of my father’s family and I couldn’t love it much more than I do. I have spent so much time there that I can’t even quantify it. And, it’s never enough. I love travel because it opens my mind to new and different ways of living and thinking.

I believe in listening to advice when in a foreign land and once I broke that rule but won’t do it again. The rule? Don’t workout outside in broad daylight in India because of the pollution, the close proximity to the equator creating a stronger sun, and its bountiful natural world co-existing with humans. Once my brother and I went out for a jog in the afternoon despite my cousin’s warning. As we ran down a beautiful palm tree lined street, we thought we were running towards a typical holy cow munching along the roadside. As we got closer we noticed it was not a cow but a bull with horns. Seconds later he was head down pawing the red clay dirt into the air and then launching towards us. We used the maze of neighborhood walled streets to get out of his vision, but somehow he kept locating my brother’s purple shirt. It felt like an eternity before we found a path home.

I guess we should have listened to our Chettan, who also knew that bulls see purple (not red actually!)

FOOD

In a country where the presumption is vegetarian, I highly recommend that you stay strictly “veg” if you are a visitor to India. The vegetarian food is so incredibly delicious that I doubt you will even miss “non-veg.” The rub is that in India meat is not processed in the same way or kept in conditions our tummies are used to in America. While those Indian spices have a potent anti-microbial value, meat often sits out without refrigeration for longer than our bodies are adjusted to or is often reheated repeatedly. Some of my favorite veggie dishes for you to try: channa masala, saag paneer, masala dosa and puri masala. Add plain yogurt to soften spices and soothe your stomach.

I do not recommend that you eat street food. So no food from small vendors, little carts, etc. unless they are packaged goods that are sealed. Only eat at the restaurants that cater to internationals (usually nice hotels or "hostels" which are actually cafeterias). Even the nicer places will not break the bank in US dollars so enjoy yourself. And remember, Indian dinners tend to be eaten late.

AVOID:

Local ice cream brands or ice creams from street vendors
Water in glasses where you do not see the bottle being opened fresh and poured
Ice (not in a typical restaurant)
Water from a tap/ sink (Indian toothpaste has stronger antimicrobial properties)
Glass bottle drinks unless it is bubbly (club soda, pepsi, etc.)
Raw food (salads, raw garnishes, etc.)

ENJOY:

Purified water
Ice cream from a parlor or from a large grocery store (with brands like Baskin Robbins, Amul, Arun)
Ice from purified water in a plastic bag
Fresh coconut water cut open in front of you
Cooked food
Banana chips (a great travel snack)

ELECTRICITY REQUIREMENTS

You need a converter and adapter to be able to use your devices safely. If you use only an adapter it only makes the unit fit, you will slowly kill your device as we have different voltage on our devices than what runs through their walls, which is why you need a converter too. Something like THIS but you can also get smaller ones.

Ladies, your flat iron or hairdryer will be too high amps to convert. Either buy them there or use the hotel’s.

Expect that the power may go out for a portion of the evening. This is called a brown out and is very common. Nice homes and schools will have generators and they will flip over to that. But, they won't power everything and can be loud. So just understand this is normal for all of India and is a way the government manages their excessive electricity demands.

You may have an individual AC unit in your room (like the kind in Europe cut into the wall). Generally you turn them off during the time you are not in the room. You keep your doors closed to keep the cool inside and mosquitos out as of the afternoon. Always assume you will be back to your accommodations later than you planned because of traffic!

MOSQUITOS

If you are in a mosquito-filled part of India, here are some things to consider:

If you will be in an area endemic to malaria, you should go see your doctor for malaria prevention before arriving in India.

Cocktail hour is replaced with "mosquito hour" in the evening in many parts of India. I spray with a bug spray that contains deet to keep the olympic athletes of mosquitos off. I am a clean beauty consumer, but I go with the real stuff in India because the stakes are high. (Mosquitos are the most deadly animal in the world). Spray around 430/5pm and reapply every few hours you are not in your bedroom.

Mosquitos love to stay in cars (spray yourself before getting in cars esp your ankles) and they hide in fabric. Put a bottle in your bag for going out in the evenings or getting caught stuck in traffic coming back in the evening. Mosquito hour goes on! Yes, they will make their way to your body even in a sealed car.

I bring a product like a Cortizone 10 to put on mosquito bites to reduce itch. (Again, something to discuss with your doc).

You'll want protection in your room as you sleep, if you are not sleeping in a fully sealed hotel. GoodKnight is the old school product most use and it basically sedates the mosquitos so they won't bite you. It is a plug in that burns all night. Every night check your unit to make sure its light is turned on on the device. (Note: power outlets often have attendant switches that need to be turned on with them). Also, make sure it has more than 1/5 amount of liquid or you need to add a new cartridge. You don't want to run out or lose protection in the middle of the night. You need all the windows to be closed at night for this to be effective. Then you run the fan and/or AC for temperature regulation.

BATHROOMS

The showers might be really different. Depending on the age of the home or the style of hotel, sometimes there is no shower head, only a spout and bucket. If you find yourself in this situation, here’s how it works. You mix hot and cold water in the bucket and then you use the cup to scoop water over your head. This is called a bucket bath.

Sometimes the hot water needs to be turned on for 30 minutes to heat before you can use the shower or spicket. There should be a light switch in the bathroom with a light that will illuminate next to it. This will heat water when flipped on.

Some bathrooms will not have toilet paper. I always keep tissues in my pocket for anything I might need.

VALUABLES

Keep your valuables locked away, including your passport, a universal travel rule. In my experience, I am less concerned about valuables in public places (like on your finger) so long as they can’t be grabbed easily. I am more worried about valuables sitting around in private homes or hotels, where they can get picked up by the numerous staff people coming and going.

I recommend photographing your passport, Indian visa(s), tickets and other important documents. Often in India they will accept phone images (like upon entering an airport or at a store when you are paying), and it is easier than rifling through your belongings. Put them in an album that’s easy to find.

TIPPING

It is common practice to thank someone even with a small amount of Rupees for taking care of you during your stay (not your host, but the help). So if there is a housekeeper sweeping your room or a cook cooking, when you leave, I recommend giving them 2,000-3,000 rupees for a week saying thank you as you hand it to them at the end of your trip. This is like $25 US.

At restaurants leave between 10-20% of bill in tip in Rupees. (20% is generous).

The begging might be hard for you to see as I know it has been for me over the years. If you give money, usually you will have more beggars come to you. Some areas have little and some cities a lot. If you see a beggar child have the money you gave them stolen in front of you, this is most often a set up for you to give more money, so decide how you wish to proceed. Beggars work in groups in most cities. You might want to make a decision with your travel companions in advance on how you want to handle giving because it can change the experience you have, like you could get barraged or be followed. After consideration, I do my giving directly in private moments because that aligns with my values. I encourage you to find what works for you.

HEALTH

Hand sanitizer- bring and use it often! Remember your body probably isn’t used to the germs in this part of the world.

Bring some covid masks (there are rules in some places and you never know what could flare while you are there and the Indian government can be strict and fast moving).

Pollution is a real thing. Some areas it's almost undetectable, others it's like walking around nearby a forest fire. Mentally prepare for this.

Avoid open sewers and watch where you walk.

If you get itchy skin or irritation from the heat, in India ask for "prickly heat powder". You could also bring THIS.

WHAT TO WEAR:

Bring two outfits for each day: one for daytime and an outfit for evening. You will likely shower twice, once in the morning and again before you have dinner to get the dust and sweat off. I look forward to this transition point between my adventurous days and my social nights.

In rural India dress much more conservatively than in urban India. When in Rome!

Women: Do wear flowy cotton dresses for warm temperatures. And, loose tops or sweaters over jeans in cooler weather. I like to bring a blazer and a large scarf in cooler climates. Just in case the temperatures drop, I bring a wool coat for layering. And of course you can shop there and dress like a local!

Men: Do wear during the day t-shirts, polo shirts, or collared shirts with shorts or jeans. Note that shorts are considered quite informal, so something to think about as to match your outfits to your itinerary. Jeans, pants, and collared shirts are appropriate for night time. In colder climates sweaters and coats will be needed. Dry cleaning is limited.

Your shoes might get pretty dirty or beat up. I keep my feet fully covered walking in big cities. In local areas I wear sandals weather permitting. It is common at churches, holy sites, homes, etc. for you to leave your shoes at the door.

WHEN IN INDIA